Welcome to our detailed report of our 1988 summer tour to Scotland. The
tour was advertised in the national CTC tours guide and so attracted youngsters
from across the UK as well as from our own section.
We've taken a lot of time to scan the photos from the tour using a high
quality slide scanner, and to combine them with the reports written at the time,
on this occasion by Philip Humphreys. However, we have not yet found
the full original report for the tour, which was published as a separate
document. If you do have a copy please get in touch with us so we can
publish it on the site.
If you took part in this tour we'd love to hear from you - please take the
time to fill out the comments form at the end of this page and we'll add them to
our Comments page. We'd also
like to add any photos that you might have from the tour, so please get in touch
with us if you would like to share them.
We hope you enjoy reading about this exciting and unique adventure.
(More photographs of the area can be found on our
1993 summer tour page, which covered an almost identical route.)
Thursday 18 August
Summer Tour Day 1: Devon to Loch Lomond YH (2 miles)
14
Present: Graham Beever (14, Eastbourne), Andrew Brush (14,
Malvern), Darrel Gough (14, Malvern), Chris Hall (15, Preston),
Michael
Hall (17, Preston), Philip Humphreys (13, Paignton), Brett Jamieson
(15, Torquay), Michael Jones (29, Buckfastleigh), Philip Mills
(15, Aylesbury), Jason
Morris (16, Buckfastleigh), Mark Morris (13, Buckfastleigh), Andrew Simmons
(17, Buckfastleigh), Jeremy Weston (16, South Brent), Stephen Wilson
(13, Berwick-upon-Tweed)
Weather:
Perhaps it would be
pessimistic to suggest that the tour started in a bad way, but it certainly
looked that way as Michael arrived literally with seconds to spare at Newton
Abbot station. A quick sprint down the platform as the whistle blew
got us into the guard's van just as the train pulled away.
The train journey was
uninterrupted until Graham Beever joined the group at Bristol Temple Meads
and produced a bunch of grapes (surely an inappropriate setting).
These were, of course, duly consumed by everyone else.
Next to embark were Darrel
Gough and Andrew Brush at Gloucester, and later Philip Mills at Cheltenham
Spa. However, by this time it became obvious that Michael was
beginning to apply class distinctions in the group as several supposedly
superior members of the group were given the honour of sitting in a first
class compartment, which brought much dispute amongst the "inferiors" in the
second class coach (complete with non-existent ventilation). Then
Michael and Chris Hall were soon to arrive in a rainy Preston, with the
final member Stephen Wilson joining at Glasgow Central.
A quick sprint through wet
Glasgow led us to Queen Street, where the bikes were expertly placed onto
the train (albeit in different carriages) despite some obvious glances from
Glasgow commuters.
Arriving at Balloch Central,
we departed for Loch Lomond Youth Hostel, but didn't proceed very far before
the tour's first mechanical mishap occurred, when Graham's gear lever
snapped. Once at the hostel, it was almost immediately time for our
prepared meal - complete with Michael's suspect vegetarian meal, and
Jeremy's levitating peas (in the soup).
Endless amusement was
provided by the hoist to take washing up to the warden's kitchen (one floor
below). Cultural discussion was provided in the games room by two
girls "from up north" about musical taste, and comedy by Michael's
dramatized fall off his bunk bed in the top floor dormitory, which resulted
in a good deal more pain than originally envisaged.
Friday 19 August
Summer Tour Day 2: Loch Lomond to Loch Ossian YH (22m)
Weather:
The warden of Loch Ossian hostel, running
around the lake in an hour!
The ****** left the Youth Hostel in obligatory rain (or so it seemed),
heading for Arrochar to catch the train which was eventually to take us to
Fort William, with the overnight stop at Loch Ossian hostel. The road
was unfortunately littered with roadworks, which had strewn grit and mud,
mixed with rain, in many places. Arriving at Arrochar the group voiced
their discontent at Michael passing several shops near to the station and
proceeding down a long hill to a shop at the bottom. Provisions were
duly bought for that night and next morning at Loch Ossian.
On returning
to the station, the bane of all visitors to the Highlands were sighted for
the first time - the notorious Scottish midge. However, the train
arrived conveniently before they could do us much harm. The subsequent
journey, thought to be one of this country's most scenic, was marred by the
permanent rain.
On arriving at the station at Corrour the rain had not really receded,
and so a quick sprint was necessitated to the spartan Loch Ossian hostel.
After the location of the dormitory (easy for all but the most idiotic
imbecile in a hostel this size), some of the group proceeded to cycle around
the Loch's 7-mile track, whilst the more foolhardy attempted a climb of the
nearby hill, through midge-infested heather, deer fences and bog.
Hence everyone later arrived at the hostel wet (the rain was as persistent
as ever). Meanwhile Jason, Andrew and Philip Mills had gone to their
supposed luxury accommodation near the station (a small building between the
two railway lines although no-one warned them about the 23:50 train).
Michael, using his (debatable) charm, thought he was on to a winner when
two young German females asked him to swap their large carton of pasteurised
milk for two of the group's smaller cartons. Michael was aghast to
discover that they had cruelly deceived him into accepting a two litre
carton of UHT milk! Perhaps this was the reason for his dubious
"ghost" story in the dormitory.
Saturday 20 August
Summer Tour Day 3: Loch Ossian to Glen Nevis YH (4m)
Weather:
The misty heights of Ben Nevis, just over
half way up - time to head back
Refreshment stop on Ben Nevis
Despite the enthusiasm of many of the group to
participate in the Loch Ossian run the previous night, only two from the
hostel left with Tom the warden, a speedy Dutchman and couple of German
athletes, that is to say on foot. Most of the group followed on bikes.
Unfortunately Jason and Andrew arrived at the hostel late, and so did not
benefit from Tom's pacemaking (the 7-mile run is to be completed in under an
hour - Tom, the warden, does it in around 59 minutes every day) and regular
time/distance checks. The run was eventually completed in time by Jeremy,
with Daryl, Andrew and Jason just missing out.
The train
was duly caught from Corrour to take us to Fort William, and despite
Jeremy's brief bout of illness, the trip was quickly over.
Passing the concrete bin that damaged Michael's bike's top tube on a
previous tour the group stopped in Fort William for a while to look around,
buy Graham a new pair of levers (he's been hobbling around in third gear)
and provisions.
Following a quick ride to Glen Nevis, we
looked in, found our dormitory, and prepared for our assault on Ben Nevis.
Having stocked up with chocolate at the hostel store the "assault" began. It
was eventually curtailed about halfway up, as we met more and more walkers
descending, and telling us how awful it was at the summit. Thus our only
consolation was Michael telling us how good it would have been if the
weather had been kinder. Unfortunately for the members of the party who
arrived back last at the hostel, the showers had been used by quite a few
people, and hence turned out to be very cold. Nevertheless, as Michael
cooked his meal that evening, you couldn't help noticing the smile on his
face, as he realised that the German hostellers from Loch Ossian were also
staying here.
Sunday 21 August
Summer Tour Day 4: Glen Nevis to Garramore YH (44m)
Weather:
Loch Eil
Loch Eil
Loch Eilt, shortly after lunch
Crofters Kitchen at Arisaig - is this where
Michael got the idea for naming his house?
Scenery near Garramore
Michael Hall helps make a very special
photograph on the beach near Garramore
Silver sand, crystal waters and sand
dunes on the beach near Garramore
Michael Hall prepares to eat his meal at
Garramore YH
Today was the first day of decent weather on the tour. However,
before leaving the hostel, Jeremy had another brief bout of illness, as did
Stephen. However, the group proceeded to cycle through Fort William,
where Steve decided to stay with his Aunt and Uncle for an indefinite
period. The group then, having stopped for further provisions, cycling
towards Glenfinnan for lunch.
To add a cultural note, Glenfinnan was the
site at which Bonnie Prince Charlie raised the standard to begin the
Jacobite Rebellion of 1745. It now boasts the famous tower with the statue
on the top, and a visitors' centre, both of which cost 20p to visit.
It was a pleasant lunch stop, though some of the group became upset at the
prospect of being forced by Michael to pay up. However, this was soon
sorted out, and the group set off for Garramore Youth Hostel, pausing on the
way only to sort out minor mechanical mishaps on Brett's bike and for a cafe
stop at Arisaig, just outside of which was the seemingly unpublicised
"Prince's Cairn" - the supposed spot from which the Prince left for France
after the Jacobite Rebellion had failed. Following many idyllic
descents, we finally arrived at the pleasant hostel of Garramore, complete
with shower and washbasin in each dormitory (plus optional German guests who
don't stop talking).
A pleasant evening was spent dune-hopping - the timeless custom of this
tour of jumping down the large drop down to the sandy dunes of the beach
below. The scene that evolved was so picturesque that it could have
been taken from a calendar, the evening being spent talking, or being
threatened with a shotgun in Andrew's case.
Monday 22 August
Summer Tour Day 5: Garramore to Glenbrittle YH (49m)
Weather:
On the road from Garramore to Mallaig
Arriving at Armadale on the Isle of Skye
Surprisingly, we were again treated to a sunny start and set off to catch
the Skye ferry at Mallaig, where we stocked up with provisions. Then
we waited, watching the ferry load up with its complicated side-loading
system. Being one of the first groups on we sat waiting, as the ferry
loaded, in the lounge.
The crossing was surprisingly quick, and the group
all managed to get off quickly. Stopping at a "grockle shop" next to
the quay where the ferry had docked, we set off to then stop at the Post
Office, virtually a tin shed. Then a few miles later the lunch stop
was reached, albeit isolated. The next stop was to be the main town of
Broadford where provisions were bought at the co-op. Jeremy was
somewhat bemused at the lady in front of him in the checkout queue talking
to the assistant in Gaelic. Unfortunately Andrew had a brief bout of
illness (of which he had complained during the day). Thus it was
decided to visit the local hospital, both for Andrew's and Graham's sake,
the latter of which had shut his finger in a window at Garramore.
Whilst
sitting in the waiting area a certain literary masterpiece was soon found by
the group, namely Ladybird's very own version of the "Gingerbread Man".
It was this that was to inspire Andrew's modernised version later in the
tour.
As Michael waited for Andrew and Graham to be seen to, the rest of
the group set off to a cafe further along the route to Glenbrittle.
The
rain had become heavier, and coupled with the road running along the coast,
it was to dampen almost everyone's spirit. When the cafe was reached a
further blow came with the proprietor telling the group that all the space
in the (small) cafe was booked for a coach party, and so popcorn had to do.
However, the group stood bemused as a horse casually wandered down the road,
turning into the cafe as if it were a normal occurrence. Perhaps it's
not so unusual on Dartmoor to see horses wandering along roads, but
nevertheless it seemed strangely out of place here. Packets of popcorn
were consumed by the horse, as Philip jokingly led it (with popcorn bait)
towards the door of the cafe.
By now the group was becoming a little concerned as to why this horse was
where it was, but reassurance came from the cafe owner who informed us that
"Starsky" (the horse) was a regular visitor. Once Michael, Graham and
Andrew arrived (and the coach party left) drinks were consumed in the cafe
and then the group reluctantly proceeded to ride to Glenbrittle, gazing at
hoards of rabbits running up and down the hillside as they passed.
The
rain seemed more persistent as we neared the hostel, only having to
negotiate a steep downhill with hairpin bends before the hostel was reached.
Andrew B had the misfortune to discover that his bike's brakes were not as
good as he thought, and illustrated the fact by veering off the road at an
alarming speed. However, he stopped (ruining his expensive Sidi shoes
and overshoes in the process), and the hostel was finally reached.
Having placed bikes in the bike shed and wet clothes in the vastly
overstocked drying room the group settled down for the evening, with the
only action being Michael cutting his finger whilst preparing his meal.
Tuesday 23 August
Summer Tour Day 6: Glenbrittle to Raasay YH (20m)
Weather:
Preparing to leave Glenbrittle YH
Views of the Cuillin mountains on Skye,
from near Glenbrittle YH
Lunch at Carbost, Isle of Skye, overlooking
Loch Harport
Setting off in mixed sunshine and rain, and retracing our steps to take
us to the ferry for Raasay, the group found it very amusing watching a young
lady in her Capri being chased by a red Astra with blue flashing light.
It wasn't quite so funny when the Astra stopped abruptly in front of the
group, and the driver told us of our supposed crime of bunching at the
traffic lights a little way back along the road. Thus the group
proceeded carefully along the route to a tin hut / shop for provisions,
despite some guilt at realising that we had bought much of the stock, much
to some locals' displeasure. A little way up the road, the group
stopped for lunch, overlooking a picturesque inlet. Jason, Mark and
Philip M rode on to sit opposite the local Primary school for their lunch,
and despite some intimidation from the local schoolchildren, the matter was
settled fairly amicably.
It was not far to the docking point for the
Raasay ferry, and so the group had time to relax on the shingle beach.
Once the short crossing was over, the group stocked up with their evening
meal in another tin hut shop on Raasay, and following a short ride through
some plantations, arrived at Raasay Youth Hostel.
After the evening meal, a few hardy members of the group climbed the
local "volcano", Dun Caan, and arrived back just in time for the warden's
sing-song, complete with backing vocals from the German guests (who seemed
present at every hostel). It meant a lazy remainder of the evening,
warm in front of the Aga-type cooker.
Wednesday 24 August
Summer Tour Day 7: Raasay to Applecross (72m)
Weather:
Wet and windy weather heralded the hardest day of the tour.
Leaving late from the hostel (with Michael who had waited for him),
Jeremy proceeded to turn left instead of right in his panic to get to
the ferry, and rode up a steep hill before realising his mistake.
Speeding back to the ferry it was humiliating to see it a hundred yards
out from Raasay. An annoyed Michael (and Jeremy) caught the next
ferry, which in fact arrived soon after, as the ferry had returned to
Raasay straight after docking on Skye. A badly planned joke
awaited them on Skye, as the driver of an immaculate Aston Martin
greeted the duo with the question "Is one of you Michael?", and told
them that the group had ridden on. Unfortunately several bikes
were obviously visible, leaned against a telephone box, and so the joke
backfired. The group proceeded in better weather to the Kyleakin-Kyle
of Lochalsh ferry.
The very short crossing took the group to the meeting point where Steve
Wilson rejoined the tour, and the group proceeded onwards to stop for
lunch at Plockton, a picturesque village with a Mediterranean type
climate because of a current that comes in by it from the ocean.
Several miles were pedalled away as the group neared their formidable
hurdle before Applecross - Bealach na ba (the Pass of the Cattle).
Rising from sea level to 2053 feet in about four miles, the sign at its
beginning stated "Not advised for learner drivers or caravans".
The plan was for everybody to climb at their own pace, and this was what
happened, although the first arrivals soon realised that it was no fun
standing around at the cold, wet and darkening summit.
Once all the group arrived the exhilarating descent began complete with
frost-bitten fingers, and it only remained for groups to be assigned to
their respective b&bs for a night of luxury. It seemed ridiculous
that a 72-mile round trip could have been substituted by a two-mile boat
trip to get from Raasay to Applecross - if only there had been a ferry.
Thursday 25 August
Summer Tour Day 8: Applecross to Torridon (34m)
Weather:
Starting out on the coastal road from
Applecross, with the village in the distance
Graham looks on as one of our members
prepares for a warm afternoon
Michael Hall
Andrew Brush
Jeremy Weston
Graham, Andrew & Jeremy, more than half way
around the coast road
Pausing for a rest at Fearnmore
Graham takes a refreshment stop near the
coast road
Rounding the headland towards Loch Torridon
Loch Torridon
Torridon
The morning was mostly spent lazing about in respective b&bs as the wet,
windy weather outside did not look too inviting. For Darrel, Chris
and Jeremy's entertainment a vide of the '87 Tour de France was provided
by their host's son Donald, a London cycle courier himself.
However, once all the groups had gathered and conversation was exchanged
about everyone's respective nights, the group slowly set out of
Applecross, along the road for one mile, only to stop at the cafe/shop
for lunch and it was not until 1.45pm that the group had all departed.
For once, sunny weather had made an appearance, and thus the coastal
scenery looked more spectacular than usual. Passing abandoned
fishing villages, the group stopped at a quiet, sandy beach, next to a
very secretive naval base, for dune hopping, and departed a little later
in sunshine. The road continued to follow the coast, with some
exciting descents making an enjoyable day's ride. A quick pause for some
of the group at a weaver's shop along the route, and then on towards
Torridon.
A final long and very fast descent brought the group to Torridon, a
modern hostel, resembling KEVICS at Totnes (as Michael was keen to point
out). Most of the group rushed in to see Top of the Pops, and the
evening was spent in the hostel, persuaded, perhaps, by the vicious
midges outside.
Friday 26 August
Summer Tour Day 9: Torridon to Carn Dearg (35m)
Weather:
Torridon YH
Just as the group were ready to leave, much later than planned due to wheel
truing, Michael spotted the laundry, hidden away in the foyer. Thus,
he proceeded to empty the entire contents of his panniers and saddlebag (or
so it seemed) to wash them, and by the time the machines were vacant and
they had consequently finished their never-ending washing and drying cycles
it was very late. Then further time was wasted at the shop down the
road buying food, and then waiting around further up the road at a National
Trust (for Scotland) building.
Finally the group began to ride up a lane
for several miles, which being quiet and undulating meant that the miles
went by with ease, but arriving in Kinlochewe, the inevitable prolonged cafe
stop came around, and it was not until 1pm that the group got going.
Further delay was created when Mark's rear axle gave up the ghost.
Jason considerately gave up his bike and walked with Mark's bike towards
Carn Dearg, whilst the group stopped at a hotel up the road to arrange for a
taxi - phoning up almost every taxi firm in Scotland for the time it took.
However, with considerable expertise and overcoming of daunting
logistics, it was also arranged for a cro-moly replacement rear axle to be
transported by various means from Perth to Carn Dearg. Thus, after a
comparatively normal ride to Carn Dearg, that evening Mark's bike received a
major overhaul, whilst Steve's mechanical "expertise" was applied to Jason's
wheels, with undesired results. The night was spent with Andrew's
"Gingerbread Man", his own modernised version of the book that had provided
the entertainment on the hospital on Skye, as well as much laughter over the
female warden beckoning Michael into her little shop.
Saturday 27 August
Summer Tour Day 10: Carn Dearg to Ullapool YH (39m)
Weather:
Heading northwards on the west coast near
Gruinard Bay
Chris Hall at Dundonnell, the start of the
short-cut track to Ullapool
Stephen Wilson on the track near Dundonnell
Crossing the footbridge near Dundonnell
The ferry to Ullapool, looking back at the
track descent to the Altnaharrie Inn
Disembarking at Ullapool
Another late start was caused
by further repairs (on Friday night's repairs), and by the time Gairloch was
reached further along the road, a cafe stop had inevitably begun. At 12.30
the group left into the wet and very windy weather. Michael, worried about
catching a ferry, sent a group of Chris and Michael Hall, Philip and Andrew
S ahead to catch the first ferry. All went fairly well along the road
despite windy conditions, but it was not until the road began to go along
the actual coast that the full force of the wind was felt, with it virtually
stopping progress at times, and blowing people off course.
Passing Michael Hall, stopped
by a puncture, it was both Darrel and Philip M's turn to experience the wind
in more painful terms - the ....
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Sunday 28 August
Summer Tour Day 11: Ullapool to Achmelvich YH
Weather:
Preparing to leave Ullapool YH
Michael Hall admires the view of Loch
Lurgainn
The Mad Little Road to Wester Ross
Andrew Brush
The Mad Little Road to Wester Ross
The Mad Little Road to Wester Ross
The Mad Little Road to Wester Ross
Location of the crash on our 1986 tour
Enjoying the magnificent silver sand
beaches near Achmelvich YH
Beaches near Achmelvich YH
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Monday 29 August
Summer Tour Day 12: Achmelvich to Carbisdale Castle YH
Weather:
The group outside Achmelvich YH
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Tuesday 30 August
Summer Tour Day 13: Carbisdale Castle to Perth YH
Weather:
Graham Beever at Carbisdale Castle YH
Carbisdale Castle YH
The group at the entrance to Carbisdale
Castle YH
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Wednesday 31 August
Summer Tour Day 14: Perth to Home
Weather:
Part of the group at Perth rail station
Perth rail station, LtoR: Jeremy Weston,
Andrew Brush, Chris Hall, Andrew Simmons, Michael Hall, Brett
Jamieson, Philip Mills, Graham Beever, Darrel Gough, Philip
Humphreys, Michael Jones, Jason Morris, Stephen Wilson, Mark
Morris
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