Welcome to our detailed report of our 1992 easter tour to Somerset and the
North Devon coast. The tour was advertised in the national CTC tours guide
and so attracted youngsters from across the UK as well as from our own section.
We've taken a lot of time to scan the photos from the tour and combine them
with the reports written at the time, but Michael's camera was faulty in 1992 so
some of the photographs are not of the highest quality, and there aren't quite
as many photographs as we would normally have taken on a tour of this kind.
If you took part in this tour we'd love to hear from you - please take the
time to fill out the comments form at the end of this page and we'll add them to
our Comments page. We'd also
like to add any photos that you might have from the tour, so please get in touch
with us if you would like to share them.
We hope you enjoy reading about this exciting and unique adventure.
Monday 20 April
Junior Tour Day 1: Taunton to Street YH (37m)
18 Present:
Neil Ault (15, Buckfastleigh), Jonathan Burgess (13, Winchester),
Sam Cannon (11, London), Arthur Caulfield (13, London),
Jonathan Crabtree (13, Bristol), Ian Gibbs (15, Rochdale),
Michael Jones, Rufus Kähler (12, London), Sebastian Lessware (17, Totnes),
Anthony Lowne (10, Stockport), Nicholas Lowne (12, Stockport),
David Platt (15, Buckfastleigh), William Raffety (12, Bristol), Zachary Slatter
(13, London), Bruno
Taylor (13, Winchester), Roger Whalley (13, Winchester),
Dan Whittle (13, Cheddar), Tom Widger (13, Totnes)
Weather:
sunny
This year's Easter tour for juniors was
to Somerset and the North Devon Coast. The route was based on the Easter
1989 junior tour, with the addition of the Somerset Levels and Street hostel
at the start of the tour. There were eighteen participants as follows:
Anthony Lowne (10, Stockport), Sam Cannon (11, London), William Raffety (12,
Bristol), Nicholas Lowne (12, Stockport), Rufus Kähler (12, London), Bruno
Taylor (13, Winchester), Jonathan Crabtree (13, Bristol), Arthur Caulfield
(13, London), Zachary Slatter (13, London), Roger Whalley (13, Winchester),
Dan Whittle (13, Cheddar), Tom Widger (13, Totnes), Jonathan Burgess (13,
Winchester), David Platt (15, Buckfastleigh), Ian Gibbs (15, Rochdale), Neil
Ault (15, Buckfastleigh), Sebastian Lessware (17, Totnes) and of course
Michael Jones.
Everyone met at Taunton rail station
by 1135 on this bright sunny morning. Ten of the participants were new to
CTC junior tours, so it was at least half an hour before the introductions
were complete. When William had figured out how to use the elastic straps
on his new panniers, and had managed to fit them to his new rack (which was
actually fitted back to front) everyone was ready to depart. We made an
impressive sight as we left the station.
Getting out of Taunton involves a
certain amount of main road riding and the negotiation of several busy
roundabouts. A short chat about roundabout procedure was sufficient to get
everyone safely through to the quiet, green lanes of Ruishton, and after
another half-an-hour's cycling we stopped for lunch on a grass verge near
North Curry.
First stop after lunch was about 200
metres up the road, at the Meare Green Willow Centre. A relief model of the
surrounding landscape showed just how flat the area was, and the various
displays illustrated the importance of willow and drainage ditches to the
life of the Levels. The woman in charge was keen to show us a video, but
the youngsters didn't fancy the twenty minute wait so we continued to Burrow
Mump, a strange round hill surrounded by a vast expanse of flatness, which
was just asking to be climbed. Zach lost a few of his sweets along the
way.
Michael had a delightful route planned
which kept the group at a constant distance of about eight miles from the
hostel. He didn't tell them of course, but they began to realise that
something was amiss after they had asked the distance at half hour intervals
and received the same answer each time. The terrain was very flat and easy,
however, and there seemed little point in arriving at the hostel before it
was open.
When the enthusiastic leading riders
arrived at a tiny left turn lane hidden behind some bushes they decided that
that couldn't be the way and went on. But it was the way, and Seb had the
job of following them the long way around. Chedzoy and Stawell brought us
to our first real hill of the day - Cock Hill - which took us all of ten
minutes to climb. Then we continued through Chilton Polden to the long,
straight roads across Chilton Moor, taking us past drains, ditches and
willows to South Drain, which looks rather like a shallow canal. Roger was
anxious to make an impression, so he decided to take the first (and last)
swim of the tour. The low temperature and presence of 'weird, slimy things
on the bottom' ensured that it lasted for no more than 32 seconds, but it
gave the rest of us a great deal of amusement.
The younger riders were beginning to
get tired at last, so we turned towards Burtle and Westhay and stopped for
refreshments at a garden centre. A sign outside the main building suggested
that ice creams were for sale inside, but several of us conducted a thorough
search of the interior and found nothing but pot plants and gardening
tools. We retreated to the cafe in disgust, but later some of the younger
members came out with delicious-looking ice-creams!
Peat factories are a distinctive
feature of this area, so there must still be a demand for garden peat
despite the efforts of environmentalists to educate the public. At Shapwick,
Dan met one of his school teachers who invited him into his house for a
drink and biscuit. Unfortunately the teacher wasn't aware of the following
hoardes, and he soon had a house which was full of young cyclists and
completely devoid of biscuits!
At the next cross-roads the leading
riders repeated their earlier mistake and went straight on before Michael
arrived. This time Michael chased after them and Seb took the sensible
members on the short-cut to the left. Unfortunately he also made a mistake
(probably because Michael had the map), and Michael's group were waiting
some time at Ashcott before they finally arrived. A final long climb up
Walton Hill brought us to the wooden, chalet-style hostel at around 6pm.
We had two dormitories, one large dorm
in the roof with its own balcony and a smaller one on the floor below. The
evening was somewhat chaotic as some members had brought money for supper
(as directed by Michael) when in fact food would have been preferable. They
had to content themselves with the range of beans and dried meals available
in the tiny hostel shop, added to the milk and bread which had been ordered
in advance for the whole group. Sam burnt his toast, and then burnt his
rice while he was attending to the toast. Ian had not brought any supper
and spent much of the evening trying to locate an American-style pizza firm
that would bring a hot pizza to him at the hostel. Needless to say, he
failed.
Showers and a jog through the
surrounding woods finished off the evening. After lights-out some people
wanted a ghost story but others did not. The result was that Michael
started one but never completed it!
Tuesday 21 April
Junior Tour Day 2: Street to Holford YH (37m)
Weather:
misty start, sunny later
The view from Glastonbury Tor
Glastonbury Tor L to R: Sam Canon, Bruno
Taylor, Tom Widger, Nicholas Lowne, Anthony Lowne
David Platt, on the Quantocks track
Tracks across the Quantocks
Navigating to the correct track on the
Quantocks
Tom Widger and Sam Canon, moments after
their crash on the Quantocks track
William Raffety & Jonathan Crabtree (?)on
the Quantocks, with Hinkley Point behind
Dan Whittle follows cautiously down the
final track to Holford YH
The clouds looked very threatening as
we awoke this morning, but by the time breakfast had been eaten and Zach had
vacuumed the dormitory for the second time, the sun had almost broken
through.
We started the day with a slight
detour to Glastonbury Tor, another enormous hill that was just asking to be
climbed. It offered excellent views of course, and the air was now clear
enough to see at least some of our proposed route across the Levels to the
distant Quantock hills.
The lane route back to Ashcott
contained so many right and left turns that we probably travelled twice the
direct distance. As we neared yet another peat farm, William stopped with a
ceased chain. He had changed to a gear which involved large rings front and
rear, and discovered that his chain was too short! The only way to free the
rock-solid chain was to release the back wheel, a task which presented its
own particular problems.
We were anxious to reach Bridgwater in
time for lunch, so we took the main road as far as Stawell and then pushed
on through Chedzoy. The time was 1330 as we entered Bridgwater, so we
stopped at the first suitable establishment - a fish and chip shop opposite
a cake shop. Some of the lads were so hungry that they ate portions of
chips that would normally serve three people!
Now it was time for a change of
scenery: the Somerset Levels were behind us and the Somerset Steeps lay
ahead. The road to Spaxton was undulating and very tiring in the afternoon
heat, but that was nothing compared with the climb to the top of the
Quantocks, which seemed almost endless. Eventually, however, we reached
Crowcombe Park Gate where the real fun began.
A rough track was to take us all the
way to the hostel, running along the top of the Quantocks and then
descending steeply towards Holford village. We certainly had the right
weather for it, but some members weren't quite sure how much they would like
a track. Michael got the proceedings off to a good start by sending
everyone off up the middle track and then deciding that the left track was
in fact the one to take. William's pannier was the next problem, as it was
still bouncing off his rack from time to time. A twig, locked around the
top straps, seemed to be the answer, but it quickly broke and no
replacements could be found. He managed by riding carefully.
The third incident was Seb's chain,
which broke at a point overlooking the sea and the Hinkley Point nuclear
power station. He quickly removed the offending link and rejoined the chain
whilst Nicholas revelled in his first views of the sea.
From Bicknoller Post Michael decided
to measure the distance to the point where we had to turn off to the left,
so that we didn't come out in the wrong place (as we had done on previous
tours to the area). Just before we reached the specified distance, Sam and
Tom, riding side by side on the track, bumped into each other: one fell to
the left over a small embankment, the other to the right into the heather.
No harm was done, but they did look rather foolish!
Holford is a fairly simple hostel, and
whilst the situation is delightful the youngsters didn't much like the
single large dormitory or the cold shower downstairs. There was a mad rush
for the single hot shower up in the main building, but Michael knew exactly
where to go and bagged it first. Zach was next, but he took ages and was
not too popular with the queue when he finally emerged.
Several youngsters thought they had
been rather clever when they scooped the table-laying job while Michael was
in the shower. When the excellent meal was served, however, it was
discovered that the mugs and dessert spoons were missing, and they had to do
a good deal of running around to put it right.
Much of the remainder of the evening
was taken up with a one-mile hike down the hill to use the public telephone
in the village.
Wednesday 22 April
Junior
Tour Day 3: Holford to Exford YH (32m)
Weather:
overcast, but brighter later
The group at Holford YH
Holford YH
East Quantoxhead
Rufus Kähler,
Zach Slatter and Arthur Caulfield at Watchet
Climbing North Hill from Minehead
Lunch on North Hill, overlooking Minehead
Anthony & Nicholas Lowne, enjoying the
track to Selworthy
Horner cafe, West Luccombe: Seb Lessware,
Jonathan Burgess, Ian Gibbs, Anthony Lowne, Nicholas Lowne,
Roger Whalley (?), Dan Whittle, David Platt
Jonathan Burgess gives a backy on Exmoor
Ian and a few others
had ordered hostel breakfasts today despite the high cost of £2.30 and
the necessity of washing up afterwards. This fact, coupled with the
problem of two people having to redo their duvet-folding and sweeping
jobs, meant that it was quite late when we finally gathered in the
hostel car park to share out the surplus milk and bread. While we were
waiting, a BT van pulled up and an engineer began to install a members'
telephone in the hostel!
First stop this
morning was the duckpond and church at East Quantoxhead. There were
plenty of willing hands to feed the ducks, but Arthur was less than
generous with the distribution of surplus bread: he reckoned the bread
was for his lunch and shouldn't be wasted on ducks.
When Michael asked
Seb to lead the group on as far as West Quantoxhead church, he didn't
expect him to lead them down the cul-de-sac to the church gate! There
were a few groans when everyone had to climb back up the hill again.
Several members went
'over the top' at the cafe in the quiet fishing village of Watchet,
ordering Knickerbocker Glories and other extravagant desserts. By the
time they were served everyone else had finished and returned to the
bikes: the forecast was for rain and Michael didn't want to hang around
any longer than necessary. Roger had to eat his chocolate nut sundae
rather more quickly than he would have liked.
After leading the
group past Blue Anchor Bay and Dunster Castle to a delicatessen in
Minehead, Michael gave everyone 25 minutes to buy lunch. Predictably,
they all trooped straight past the delicatessen and headed for the
supermarkets. When the allotted time was up, Nicholas and Anthony were
found wandering around near the bakery saying they hadn't been able to
find a single food shop! Actually they'd been looking for gift shops
and had run out of time. We waited for them while they visited the
bakery and then set about climbing the famous North Hill.
We stopped for lunch
and a well-earned rest on a grassy area near the top, overlooking the
town and several miles of coastline. The threat of rain was still in
the air, however, so we wasted no time in pressing on to the steep,
rough track that leads to the National Trust village of Selworthy. In
fact the track was so rough in the early stages that Ian's pannier
finally gave up the ghost and had to be tied down with bungey straps.
Sadly, ice-creams
were no longer sold in the village, so we made use of the gift shop and
lavatories and then proceeded along some more interesting tracks to
Allerford.
Allerford is a
picture-postcard hamlet famous for its delightful ford and cobbled
bridge. Given the choice, most sensible people would ride the bridge,
but Zachary, being Zachary, and Rufus, being quite unlike Rufus, decided
to take the ford and prove that they could ride where many others had
fallen in. Amazingly they both succeeded, but the depth of water
ensured that they were still drenched to the skin.
The rain had still
not arrived by the time we reached Horner cafe, near West Luccombe, so
we allowed ourselves the luxury of a refreshment stop. Besides, Seb and
Tom needed a rest after crashing into each other a few minutes earlier:
the following driver had been a nurse, but there was no serious injury.
A sign in the cafe garden advised people to ring the hand bell and wait
for service. Seb was determined to follow the instructions to the
letter and waited there patiently, despite the fact that everyone else
was being served at their tables. In the end he was the last to be
served, which just goes to show that stubbornness is never rewarded.
The final seven miles
to the hostel was always going to be tough. The first long climb, to
Cloutsham Ball, was tackled bravely by Arthur, who won the Yellow Jersey
for his efforts. Neil spent a lot of time going up and down the hill,
showing just how much surplus energy he had and keeping us informed of
how far back the youngest riders were.
Cloutsham ford didn't
manage to claim a single casualty today. As we commenced the next
climb, however, we realised that Sam's knee problems were slowing him
down a lot, and several of the other youngsters were getting very
tired. We devised a team game to help them which was rather like a
relay race. The fitter riders went a hundred metres or so up the hill.
Three of them then dropped their bikes, walked back and pushed the
youngsters' three bikes up the hill for them. When they had reached
their own bikes, three more people were waiting to take over, having
just walked 100 metres back from their bikes. There were several
variations: some tried to ride the bikes up instead of pushing them,
although they were frequently the wrong size, and Jon Burgess even gave
Sam a ride on the back of his bike at one point. The system really
worked well, and we surprised at how quickly we managed to get everyone
to the top.
By now the weather
was windy, grey and cold. We were glad of the final descent and arrived
at the luxurious hostel just thirty minutes before supper. We hurried
into the three showers and crawled into the recently refurbished dining
area just as supper was being served, some of us still dripping from the
shower. Apparently the new conservatory-style extension to the dining
area cost £100 000: one can understand the jealousy of other hostel
wardens!
It quickly became
obvious that the warden didn't like children. He swore at two
youngsters in Michael's absence, was tetchy with many others and showed
obvious distaste as he switched from serving an adult hosteller to one
of our children at the reception desk. We discovered later that the
warden was short-staffed, and he apologised to us in writing after the
tour.
The forecast rain
finally came after dark, and continued falling throughout the night.
Thursday 23 April
Junior
Tour Day 4: Exford to Lynton YH (27m)
Weather:
dry and sunny
The coast path from Hunters Inn to Woody
Bay
The coast path from Hunters Inn to Woody
Bay
Coast path to Woody Bay
Roger Whalley leads the climb past Lee
Abbey
Rufus Kähler,
Roger Whalley and Zach Slatter, at Valley of the Rocks
L to R: Roger Whalley, Sam Canon (?), Zach
Slatter and Rufus Kähler at
Valley of the Rocks
Zach Slatter & Rufus Kähler
at Valley of the Rocks
The coast path to Lynton
Zach's job this morning was to
clean out the showers, and absolutely everybody knew about it:
apparently he objected to cleaning up all the hairs! Ian's job was to
clean the mirrors with an aerosol, but more seemed to end up on the rest
of us than reached the mirrors. When we'd left everything spotless and
the warden thought we had gone, he was overhead grumbling to his
assistant that it wasn't good enough. There's just no pleasing some
people!
Sam's leg was worse this morning.
He hadn't got far up the hill towards Simonsbath before it became
obvious he needed a complete rest from cycling. Michael found a taxi
driver in Simonsbath who agreed to transport Sam and his bike to the
Lynton hostel for £11. The warden agreed to look after him when he
arrived, which left the rest of us free to continue with the planned
ride.
Lunch today was purchased at
Challacombe. The shopkeeper remembered Michael from previous tours to
the area, and also recognised 'Young Slatter' (yes, he does seem to be
getting a lot of mentions, doesn't he?). Apparently, Zachary used to
have a holiday home in the hamlet several years ago, and obviously
hadn't changed too much since then.
The range of food in this little
store was quite extensive considering its tiny size. Nevertheless, Jono
could find nothing better to eat than a bottle of cold cockles and a
whole Swiss role, while Michael resorted to his old favourite - cold
baked beans, straight from the tin.
A brisk climb to Blackmoor Gate
was followed by one of Michael's short-cuts: dropping 2000 metres into
Parracombe and climbing out the other side instead of going around the
edge. Well, that was how the youngsters saw it anyway. In reality, the
drop was just a few hundred metres and the edge route was three times
the length.
The descent to Hunters Inn is
steep, twisty and dangerous, especially when the road has recently been
covered with gravel. Michael, as usual, tried to protect everyone by
leading down the hill at a sensible pace, but some thought it was clever
to wait at the top until Michael had gone so they could ride at their
own breakneck speed. On this occasion, Dan paid the price by coming off
on a gravely corner. Fortunately he was not badly hurt, but it took Seb
half an hour to get his bike ready for the road again.
We purchased gifts and enjoyed ice
creams and peacocks at the Inn, then set off along the coastal footpath
to Woody Bay. The dramatic cliffs dropping to the sea made a
magnificent sight for those who weren't cycling too fast to notice
them. Needless to say, Nicholas wasn't missing any of it. We paused
briefly along the way to speak to a woman who was admiring the view from
a seat. Apparently she had also been eyeing up the lads as they went
past, and announced that David was definitely the most handsome member
of the crew - much to our amusement. When she discovered he was from
Devon, she put it down to local confidence.
As we descended the long and hairy
descent to Lee Bay, the steep climb past Lee Abbey became visible
through the trees, provoking comparisons with Parracombe. It wasn't as
bad as expected, however, and we were soon at the Valley of the Rocks,
scrambling up the rocks just to say we'd done it. During the descent
Michael tried to outrun Arthur, lost his footing on a rock concealed
under the grass and sprained his ankle. It wasn't so painful that he
couldn't complete the tour, but he had weakened it semi-permanently.
To conclude the afternoon we took
the scenic coastal footpath to Lynton, rode on the cliff railway from
Lynton to Lynmouth and bought some final gifts in the Lynmouth shops -
Devon fudge seemed the best gift available. When we arrived at the
hostel, Sam was waiting patiently for us, memorising the lines for his
starring role as Oliver Twist in his school play.
The home-made supper was
definitely the best of the tour. Dan was quite put out when he saw the
warden give Michael a larger portion of pizza than anyone else, and kept
on about it for the next half an hour. He was able to get seconds of
the fruit sponge and sauce, however, which cooled him off a little.
Another group of adults, who shared the dining area with us, spent much
of the mealtime passing rude comments about the behaviour of our
youngsters. In fact they were very well behaved, except when some
disappeared to the dormitories before everyone had finished and had to
be called back to the tables.
Once again the only telephone was
in the village. After a long walk down and back we concluded the
evening with a general chat, partly ruined by Ian and friends who were
more interested in finishing their game in the adjacent dormitory.
Friday 24 April
Junior Tour Day 5: Lynton to Barnstaple (19m)
Weather:
heavy rain
There was no escape
from the rain this morning. We had to reach Barnstaple by lunch time,
otherwise we would miss our trains. Just as we were preparing to leave,
Nick and Anthony got a telephone call from their father saying he would
collect them from the hostel! Some people get all the luck!
After tidying the
dorms and watching the oldies depart in their cars we set off in the
torrential rain. Sam was still in pain as we began the long climb up to
Blackmoor Gate, and at one point it looked as though a taxi would again
be required. He persevered however, with a lot of help from Seb, and
eventually caught up with the rest of us at Blackmoor. Michael allowed
the group to give the Parracombe drop a miss today, but Ian and Jono
took the short-cut and reckoned it was a lot less windy, vindicating
Michael's assessment very nicely.
We used the
hand-drier in the toilets at Blackmoor to warm ourselves a little, then
Michael got an accurate handle on the distance to Barnstaple and gave a
running countdown all the way. It was mainly downhill apart from one
hairpin climb, which happened to coincide with a particularly nasty
downpour. Jono and Roger had their panniers taken by passing parents at
the top, just to make things a little easier.
The rain stopped
gradually, and the sun was out as we rode into Barnstaple. Ian was
driven off in one car, Dan in another and Roger and Jono in yet another.
The remaining ten of us bought lunch and managed to get all our bikes on
the first train to Exeter.
Now, after 151.5 miles in five days, the tour was nearing its
conclusion. There will be other tours, of course, but this particular
group will never ride together again.