Last
minute cancellations from Gavin, Tao and Oliver left just three of us to set
off from Buckfastleigh at 9am for the short journey to Liskeard. We
parked the car in Liskeard station, unloaded the bikes and were ready to
start our tour of the North Cornwall coast despite having some anxieties
about the unsettled weather forecast.
The smell of the hot pasties we
purchased at Liskeard proved irresistable, so we ended up eating them right
outside the shop - and it was only 10.30! Fully charged for the day
ahead we navigated through the back lanes to pick up the Bolventor road
across Bodmin moor, stopping briefly to explore the Golitha Woods nature
reserve before following the river Fowey through some of the most delightful
scenery of the tour. Josh decided he wanted one day to own a
property in this picturesque valley! Meanwhile Joe was having problems
with his new SPD pedals: one side was a bit tight, so a few times when he
tried to stop he ended up sprawled across the road!
At Bolventor we called in to the Jamaica Inn, made famous by the Daphne
Du Maurier book of the same name, and settled down to a tasty meal in the
Peddlars restaurant. Josh and Joe could only afford chips, but they
got so many for their £1 that they couldn't begin to eat them all! A
short section of the busy A30 brought us quickly to Altarnun, its quaint
bridge and river bathed in early afternoon sunshine, and from there we began
the slow climb to Davidstow moor, passing wind farms along the way that
suggested just how exposed the moor would be when we finally reached it.
It was a little breezy as we climbed, but as soon as we crossed the cattle
grid onto the moor we experienced the full power of the north-Cornish wind.
We sought temporary respite in the lea of a derelict airfield building,
watching a nearby man doing his best to keep his feet on the ground while
flying his kite, then proceeded in close formation across the moor what we
thought was the main airfield base! In fact it turned out to be a
creamery, the airfield having closed in 1945!
The final leg of the journey to Tintagel was somewhat cold with a stiff
headwind and increasing cloud, so we explored a few of the shops when we
arrived, including Granny Wobbly's Fudge Pantry, a sports and camping shop
that boasted some very high-tech gadgets and the toy museum with its
fascinating range of metallic Star Trek characters. Having purchased
provisions for the night we rode out of the village, past the ancient church
and along the rough track that leads along the headland to the hostel.
A glorious sunset greeted us as we arrived at the secluded hostel, situated
high up on the headland overlooking the sea. This was surely the most
perfect youth hostel in the land!
There is one dormitory at Tintagel that the well-informed hosteller
always wants to occupy, and that is the front dorm, half submerged in the
hillside and offering the very best sea views from the narrow windows.
On many previous visits Michael had failed to secure this dorm, but today we
were lucky. It is a 6-bedded dorm, and because we had paid for six
beds we were all able to have top bunks and plenty of space for our
belongings!
Joe liked riding with no panniers so we decided to explore Tintagel
castle next. We were able to look around most of the ruins and explore
some of the caves and rocks by the sea before the fading light forced us to
return to the hostel. Once settled in the warm kitchen we set about
preparing our meals, Joe adding to the fare by opening a box of Nesquik
chocolate milkshake powder for all to share! We finished an excellent
first day with card games in the kitchen and chats with other hostellers.
Thursday 13 April
Easter Tour Day 2 to
Treyarnon Bay YH
(40 miles)
Weather: Cloudy with strong
wind
The
wind was still very much in evidence on Thursday morning - it had been
blowing all night and had actually helped us all sleep soundly!
After a good breakfast we proceeded with good speed to Delabole, passing
close to the enormous turbines of the nearby wind farm. We had planned
to look at the slate quarry, still worked today, but we didn't see any signs
for it so decided to press on.
We stopped briefly for pasties and cakes at
St Kew Highway, then sped on to Wadebridge for lunch. We were planning
to ride the Camel Trail to Padstow, but since we had plenty of time we rode
the section to Bodmin and back first, stopping at the garden cafe on the way
back. There were several cyclists out today despite the rather
unfriendly weather conditions. Back at Wadebridge the three cycle hire
shops were doing brisk trade, with around ten cyclists a minute coming off
the path from Padstow. We stopped occasionally to admire the views and
wildlife of the river Camel, then arrived in the bustling fishing village of
Padstow by around 4pm. Sadly the pasty shop that Michael remembered so
well had sold nearly all its stock for the day, but we found a few left that
took our fancy.
The highlight of our time in Padstow was a 15-minute speedboat trip that
cost £4 each. We had never travelled so fast on water before. We
got drenched as the boat turned into the wind, but it all just helped make
the trip even more memorable! A waterfront cafe helped warm us up
before we set off once again for the short journey to the hostel.
Our route took us past Harlyn sands. Even though the weather was
still cool and cloudy we decided to enjoy the beach anyway: Joe and Josh ran
across the soft sands and straight into the water, fully clothed, before
Michael could say a word! It was just as well we were just minutes
away from the hostel!
Treyarnon Bay hostel, situated beside its own unique bay, is quite large
compared to the others we used on this tour, and it is distinctive in
offering its meals service to non-residents as well as hostellers. We
didn't have time to order hostel food, but Joe would have liked to do so.
Our dorm was comfortable and quiet, so after a good meal and some expensive
time on the hostel's internet service we settled down for another good
night's sleep.
Friday 14 April
Easter Tour Day 3 to
Perranporth YH
(29 miles)
Weather: Wet start, then
cloudy
The
weather forecast last night had led us to believe that today would be
brighter than yesterday, and with decreasing winds we were so confident
about the day that we decided to return to Padstow to sample the full range
of pasties. The first drops of rain began to fall as we walked along
Constantine beach, and by the time we reached Padstow the rain was constant.
There were certainly plenty of pasties, but we did feel rather cheated of
the promised good weather!
The light rain continued all the way to
Bedruthan Steps, where thick mist ensured that nothing at all was visible of
the sea or steps! Josh was in need of a morale boost so we settled
into the cafe for hot drinks and good food. There seemed little point
in going to the steps, but at least the rain had stopped by the time we had
finished looking in the gift shop. We continued through Mawgan
Porth to the enormous Watergate Bay, where Josh watched the surfers
enviously and decided he'd like to take up surfing one day. Arriving
in Newquay we went straight to Newquay Zoo, our main attraction of the day,
and spent a couple of hours examining its many inhabitants. It's not
as large as Paignton Zoo, but it has a different range of animals and kept
us very well entertained. Joe fell in love with a bunch of around 20
otters, Josh was impressed by the roaring lion and we all thought the white
peacock at the centre of the maze put on a very impressive display for us!
At 5pm it was definitely time to be moving on. We rode to the tiny
village of Cubert and then took the back lanes into Perranporth. The
hostel is located high on a cliff overlooking one of the largest beaches in
Cornwall, so the views were very impressive. For our last night we
were a little more adventurous with our meals, working together to produce
three jacket potatoes with tuna, cheese and beans - only possible because of
the introduction of microwave ovens to hostels! When Josh had finally
finished chatting with the surfer-dude who ran the hostel the tide had moved
out so we set off for an after-dark exploration of the beach.
Saturday 15 April
Easter Tour Day 4 to
Home
(16 miles)
Weather: Sunny start
turning to drizzle
Our
final day dawned with some promising sunshine. Joe, who had won the
award for slowest packer at the first two hostels, was actually outside
first today, but since he then spent twenty minutes effecting bike repairs
Josh disputed his claim for first place. Josh had been the clear
winner at Tintagel, and Michael was first at Treyarnon, so eventually Josh
conceded that Joe should be awarded first place today.
We explored some of the
local shops and had a daylight walk on the enlarging beach before setting
off along the coast path from Perranporth to St Agnes. The path
provided plenty of challenges and offered spectacular coastal views.
There was plenty of evidence of the extensive tin mining that once
flourished in the area, including a horizontal disused mineshaft and the now
derelict engine houses and vertical shafts near Cligga Head. The
conical wire covers over the shaft heads are apparently designed to keep
humans out but allow bats in! Our five-mile adventure took most of the
morning and culminated with excellent views of Perranporth airfield, used by
the RAF during the war but now used only for gliding and private aviation.
Several planes took off and landed while we were there, many dropping
parachutists nearby.
On arrival at St Agnes we ran into an RNLI motorbike
scramble near the coast, which kept Josh interested for some time.
Cloud had now blotted out the morning sunshine so we began to feel
distinctly chilly as we ate lunch outside the little stores in the village.
Our plan had been to enjoy the beaches along the coast towards St Ives, but
by the time we reached Portreath, light rain was beginning to fall. We
made use of the nearby cafe to buy knickerbocker glories and other items,
but the rain showed no sign of easing. Our enthusiasm for beaches
began to wane, so we headed straight for Camborne station where we boarded
the 1514 service to Liskeard.
This was Josh's first real train journey, and Joe had been looking
forward to it all day. The hour-long journey gave us chance to relax,
enjoy the view and get thoroughly warmed up before disembarking at Liskeard
and loading the bikes back into the car. We decided to use the
remaining time to enjoy an end-of-tour visit to Pizza Hut at Derriford.
We hadn't had the best of weather, but it had nevertheless been an enjoyable
adventure of some 117 miles over 4 days.
The following notes were published
before the tour took place.
Cycletouring is probably the ultimate
adventure for cyclists, taking them to new villages, new scenery, new cultures,
new tracks and new challenges. Taking part in a tour does require a little
preparation of course, but once you’ve experienced the freedom and fun of cycletouring you’ll very probably feel it was all well worth the effort.
Our first tour this
year will take us to some of the most spectacular scenery in the South West—the
north Cornwall coast. It covers the four days 12-15 April which includes part
of the Easter bank holiday weekend and will include three overnights at
different youth hostels in the area. You can find full details of the tour
inside this brochure.
We’ve cycled to
this area many times before with the club, and it’s always been one of our most
popular tours. All the photographs on this page were taken on
previous South Dartmoor tours to the same area, so they will give you a good
idea of the scenery you’ll be exploring.
Itinerary (4 days cycling)
Date
Mileage
Description
Accommodation
Wed 12 April
25
On day one you
will take a train to Liskeard station and then cycle northwards across the
wild spaces of Bodmin moor, passing the famous Jamaica Inn along the route.
This will lead you via RAF Davidstow to Tintagel in the north where the
youth hostel hugs the edge of a cliff and offers some of the most
spectacular views of the tour right from your bunk. If there’s time during
the evening you’ll be able to explore Tintagel castle, the fortress used by
King Arthur many years ago.
On Thursday you’ll be cycling the
famous Camel Trail cyclepath from Wadebridge, where cycle hire shops at each
end of the path ensure that there are always hundreds of other cyclists
using the path. After lunch in the delightful fishing village of Padstow
you’ll continue along the coast to Treyarnon Bay youth hostel, situated next
to one of Cornwall’s many unspoiled beaches.
The third day
will take you further along the north Cornwall coast to Newquay, one of
Cornwall’s premier surfing beaches. If you’re lucky you may get to go on
the pedal boats in Newquay park, or look around the World in Miniature at
Goonhavern. Highlight of the day, however, will be the enormous beach at
Perranporth, offering many opportunities for exploration and fun. The
hostel is situated at Droskyn Point offering spectacular views of the sea
and Perran sands.
The final day
will take you further down the coast, past more glorious beaches at
Porthtowan and Portreath, to Camborne where the train will take you back to
Totnes during the late afternoon.
Home
Estimated tour costs
We keep costs low by
staying at youth hostels and preparing our own meals in the self-catering
kitchens. You need to pay youth hostel and rail costs when you book the tour,
as beds and trains need to be reserved in advance, but you can delay paying your
spending and food money until the tour begins.
Cost component
Age 12-17
Adult (with YP railcard)
Youth hostels
29.85
41.40
Rail travel, Totnes to Liskeard and Camborne to Totnes,
including bikes (approx)
12.00
16.00
Food (recommended minimum)
18.00
18.00
General spending (recommended minimum)
10.00
10.00
Total cost
69.85
85.40
Preparation
Your cycle needs certain features to cope with
the special demands of cycle touring. It needs to be sturdy enough to carry
heavy loads and cope with occasional rough roads or tracks; it needs to have low
gears (30" or lower) so that you can cycle up most of the hills even when the
bike is heavily loaded and you are exhausted; and it needs to be reliable, as
breakages are not always easy to fix when you're a long way from civilisation.
Specialist touring bikes offer the best
combination of features, but mountain bikes are more popular and can usually
meet most of the requirements with just a few modifications. You will certainly
need to fit a good quality pannier rack, and full-length mudguards are a
sensible idea if you don’t want to have to wash your clothes every night on wet
days. We also recommend changing the tyres for faster, road tyres: you will
spend most of the tour riding on roads, where chunky tyres make the riding hard
work.
If you’re planning to buy a new bike, start by
looking at the Trek 800 range which offers quick release wheels and four-point
rack fixing bolts for around £300, and have a chat with Michael to discuss your
ideas before you make the final decision. Whatever bike you decide to use, make
sure it is roadworthy and safe before the tour begins.
Panniers are really essential for a tour, so
you can carry all your luggage safely on the bike. A good pair of panniers will
have a total capacity of at least 40 litres in two separate, easy-to-remove bags
and will cost between £38 and £65 for the pair. Altura and Karrimor set high
standards for their products, but some other manufacturers offer similar
quality.
When choosing a pannier rack, try to get a
strong one that uses four-point fixing, as this will be more stable when loaded
with heavy panniers and will be less likely to break - expect to pay £20-£35 for
a good rack.
You are almost certain to get rain on at least
one day of the tour, so you will need good raingear that is completely
waterproof. The recommended kit here is a waterproof jacket made of proofed
nylon or one of the cheaper breathable fabrics, costing around £25-£80.
Three-layer GoreTex would be even better, but prices start at around £150 and so
would not be a sensible purchase if you are still growing. Over-trousers are
not really very useful in spring or summer - you'll be better off wearing shorts
in the rain than getting hot and uncomfortable in overtrousers.
The best footwear for the tour is probably a
good pair of trainers that you can use on or off the bike. Select other items
of clothing according to your personal tastes.
Cycle helmets are optional on the tour but we
strongly recommend that you wear one. Just remember that they are not designed
to protect you in a collision with a car, for example, so you still need to ride
carefully and safely at all times.
If you are not already a member of the CTC you
will need to join now, before you send in your booking form. CTC membership
costs just £12 per year for under 18s and includes free third party insurance
(in case you cause an accident while cycling) and free legal aid. You can join
online at www.ctc.org.uk or telephone 0870-8730061.
You must also be a member of the Youth Hostels
Association when the tour starts. Membership costs £10 per year and entitles you
to stay at the youth hostels that are part of the tour. Once again you can join
online at www.yha.org.uk, or telephone 01629-592600.
Lights are optional, but could be useful in
case we are forced to arrive late by unforeseen circumstances. Other items for
your packing list will be listed on your final information sheet just before the
tour begins.
How to book
Complete the online form below and we'll send you our detailed information
booklet and booking form, which includes parental consent. Just return the
application form to us as quickly as possible with your advance fees (train and
hostel charges) and you'll be included in the tour. But don't leave it too
long, as hostels often get fully booked well in advance.
Final Bookings
1. Michael Jones
2. Joe Venables
3. Josh Ham
Latest tour details (constantly updated)
Provisionally taking train from Totnes on Wednesday 12 April, leaving
Totnes 0852, arriving Liskeard 0945
6 bikes will be reserved if possible. Tao may choose to take train Newton
Abbot to Totnes.
Probably cycling to Totnes, weather permitting.
Provisionally taking train from Camborne on Saturday 15 April, leaving
Camborne 1629, arriving Totnes 1828
6 bikes will be reserved if possible. Tao may choose to take train Totnes
to Newton Abbot.
Probably cycling home from Totnes, weather permitting.
Total cost of rail travel is £69.50 (using Michael's family railcard)
plus £6 towards the cost of the railcard, total £75.50. Dividing this as
fairly as possible, the two children go for £10 each and the 4 adults for £13.88
each.