South Dartmoor CTC

 


 

 

 

 

Wednesday 12 April Easter Tour Day 1 to Tintagel YH (31 miles) Weather: Mainly sunny with strong wind
Last minute cancellations from Gavin, Tao and Oliver left just three of us to set off from Buckfastleigh at 9am for the short journey to Liskeard.  We parked the car in Liskeard station, unloaded the bikes and were ready to start our tour of the North Cornwall coast despite having some anxieties about the unsettled weather forecast.

The smell of the hot pasties we purchased at Liskeard proved irresistable, so we ended up eating them right outside the shop - and it was only 10.30!  Fully charged for the day ahead we navigated through the back lanes to pick up the Bolventor road across Bodmin moor, stopping briefly to explore the Golitha Woods nature reserve before following the river Fowey through some of the most delightful scenery of the tour.  Josh decided he wanted  one day to own a property in this picturesque valley!  Meanwhile Joe was having problems with his new SPD pedals: one side was a bit tight, so a few times when he tried to stop he ended up sprawled across the road!

At Bolventor we called in to the Jamaica Inn, made famous by the Daphne Du Maurier book of the same name, and settled down to a tasty meal in the Peddlars restaurant.  Josh and Joe could only afford chips, but they got so many for their £1 that they couldn't begin to eat them all!  A short section of the busy A30 brought us quickly to Altarnun, its quaint bridge and river bathed in early afternoon sunshine, and from there we began the slow climb to Davidstow moor, passing wind farms along the way that suggested just how exposed the moor would be when we finally reached it.  It was a little breezy as we climbed, but as soon as we crossed the cattle grid onto the moor we experienced the full power of the north-Cornish wind.  We sought temporary respite in the lea of a derelict airfield building, watching a nearby man doing his best to keep his feet on the ground while flying his kite, then proceeded in close formation across the moor what we thought was the main airfield base!  In fact it turned out to be a creamery, the airfield having closed in 1945!

The final leg of the journey to Tintagel was somewhat cold with a stiff headwind and increasing cloud, so we explored a few of the shops when we arrived, including Granny Wobbly's Fudge Pantry, a sports and camping shop that boasted some very high-tech gadgets and the toy museum with its fascinating range of metallic Star Trek characters.  Having purchased provisions for the night we rode out of the village, past the ancient church and along the rough track that leads along the headland to the hostel.  A glorious sunset greeted us as we arrived at the secluded hostel, situated high up on the headland overlooking the sea.  This was surely the most perfect youth hostel in the land!

There is one dormitory at Tintagel that the well-informed hosteller always wants to occupy, and that is the front dorm, half submerged in the hillside and offering the very best sea views from the narrow windows.  On many previous visits Michael had failed to secure this dorm, but today we were lucky.  It is a 6-bedded dorm, and because we had paid for six beds we were all able to have top bunks and plenty of space for our belongings!

Joe liked riding with no panniers so we decided to explore Tintagel castle next.  We were able to look around most of the ruins and explore some of the caves and rocks by the sea before the fading light forced us to return to the hostel.  Once settled in the warm kitchen we set about preparing our meals, Joe adding to the fare by opening a box of Nesquik chocolate milkshake powder for all to share!  We finished an excellent first day with card games in the kitchen and chats with other hostellers.

 

Thursday 13 April Easter Tour Day 2 to Treyarnon Bay YH (40 miles) Weather: Cloudy with strong wind
The wind was still very much in evidence on Thursday morning - it had been blowing all night and had actually helped us all sleep soundly!   After a good breakfast we proceeded with good speed to Delabole, passing close to the enormous turbines of the nearby wind farm.  We had planned to look at the slate quarry, still worked today, but we didn't see any signs for it so decided to press on.

We stopped briefly for pasties and cakes at St Kew Highway, then sped on to Wadebridge for lunch.  We were planning to ride the Camel Trail to Padstow, but since we had plenty of time we rode the section to Bodmin and back first, stopping at the garden cafe on the way back.  There were several cyclists out today despite the rather unfriendly weather conditions.  Back at Wadebridge the three cycle hire shops were doing brisk trade, with around ten cyclists a minute coming off the path from Padstow.  We stopped occasionally to admire the views and wildlife of the river Camel, then arrived in the bustling fishing village of Padstow by around 4pm.  Sadly the pasty shop that Michael remembered so well had sold nearly all its stock for the day, but we found a few left that took our fancy.

The highlight of our time in Padstow was a 15-minute speedboat trip that cost £4 each.  We had never travelled so fast on water before.  We got drenched as the boat turned into the wind, but it all just helped make the trip even more memorable!  A waterfront cafe helped warm us up before we set off once again for the short journey to the hostel.

Our route took us past Harlyn sands.  Even though the weather was still cool and cloudy we decided to enjoy the beach anyway: Joe and Josh ran across the soft sands and straight into the water, fully clothed, before Michael could say a word!  It was just as well we were just minutes away from the hostel!

Treyarnon Bay hostel, situated beside its own unique bay, is quite large compared to the others we used on this tour, and it is distinctive in offering its meals service to non-residents as well as hostellers.  We didn't have time to order hostel food, but Joe would have liked to do so.  Our dorm was comfortable and quiet, so after a good meal and some expensive time on the hostel's internet service we settled down for another good night's sleep.

 

Friday 14 April Easter Tour Day 3 to Perranporth YH (29 miles) Weather: Wet start, then cloudy
The weather forecast last night had led us to believe that today would be brighter than yesterday, and with decreasing winds we were so confident about the day that we decided to return to Padstow to sample the full range of pasties.  The first drops of rain began to fall as we walked along Constantine beach, and by the time we reached Padstow the rain was constant.  There were certainly plenty of pasties, but we did feel rather cheated of the promised good weather!

The light rain continued all the way to Bedruthan Steps, where thick mist ensured that nothing at all was visible of the sea or steps!  Josh was in need of a morale boost so we settled into the cafe for hot drinks and good food.  There seemed little point in going to the steps, but at least the rain had stopped by the time we had finished looking in the gift shop.   We continued through Mawgan Porth to the enormous Watergate Bay, where Josh watched the surfers enviously and decided he'd like to take up surfing one day.  Arriving in Newquay we went straight to Newquay Zoo, our main attraction of the day, and spent a couple of hours examining its many inhabitants.  It's not as large as Paignton Zoo, but it has a different range of animals and kept us very well entertained.  Joe fell in love with a bunch of around 20 otters, Josh was impressed by the roaring lion and we all thought the white peacock at the centre of the maze put on a very impressive display for us!

At 5pm it was definitely time to be moving on.  We rode to the tiny village of Cubert and then took the back lanes into Perranporth.  The hostel is located high on a cliff overlooking one of the largest beaches in Cornwall, so the views were very impressive.  For our last night we were a little more adventurous with our meals, working together to produce three jacket potatoes with tuna, cheese and beans - only possible because of the introduction of microwave ovens to hostels!  When Josh had finally finished chatting with the surfer-dude who ran the hostel the tide had moved out so we set off for an after-dark exploration of the beach.

 

Saturday 15 April Easter Tour Day 4 to Home (16 miles) Weather: Sunny start turning to drizzle
Our final day dawned with some promising sunshine.  Joe, who had won the award for slowest packer at the first two hostels, was actually outside first today, but since he then spent twenty minutes effecting bike repairs Josh disputed his claim for first place.  Josh had been the clear winner at Tintagel, and Michael was first at Treyarnon, so eventually Josh conceded that Joe should be awarded first place today.

We explored some of the local shops and had a daylight walk on the enlarging beach before setting off along the coast path from Perranporth to St Agnes.  The path provided plenty of challenges and offered spectacular coastal views.  There was plenty of evidence of the extensive tin mining that once flourished in the area, including a horizontal disused mineshaft and the now derelict engine houses and vertical shafts near Cligga Head.  The conical wire covers over the shaft heads are apparently designed to keep humans out but allow bats in!  Our five-mile adventure took most of the morning and culminated with excellent views of Perranporth airfield, used by the RAF during the war but now used only for gliding and private aviation.  Several planes took off and landed while we were there, many dropping parachutists nearby.

On arrival at St Agnes we ran into an RNLI motorbike scramble near the coast, which kept Josh interested for some time.  Cloud had now blotted out the morning sunshine so we began to feel distinctly chilly as we ate lunch outside the little stores in the village.  Our plan had been to enjoy the beaches along the coast towards St Ives, but by the time we reached Portreath, light rain was beginning to fall.  We made use of the nearby cafe to buy knickerbocker glories and other items, but the rain showed no sign of easing.  Our enthusiasm for beaches began to wane, so we headed straight for Camborne station where we boarded the 1514 service to Liskeard.

This was Josh's first real train journey, and Joe had been looking forward to it all day.  The hour-long journey gave us chance to relax, enjoy the view and get thoroughly warmed up before disembarking at Liskeard and loading the bikes back into the car.  We decided to use the remaining time to enjoy an end-of-tour visit to Pizza Hut at Derriford.  We hadn't had the best of weather, but it had nevertheless been an enjoyable adventure of some 117 miles over 4 days.

 

 

The following notes were published before the tour took place.

 

Cycletouring is probably the ultimate adventure for cyclists, taking them to new villages, new scenery, new cultures, new tracks and new challenges.  Taking part in a tour does require a little preparation of course, but once you’ve experienced the freedom and fun of cycletouring you’ll very probably feel it was all well worth the effort.

Our first tour this year will take us to some of the most spectacular scenery in the South West—the north Cornwall coast.  It covers the four days 12-15 April which includes part of the Easter bank holiday weekend  and will include three overnights at different youth hostels in the area.  You can find full details of the tour inside this brochure.

We’ve cycled to this area many times before with the club, and it’s always been one of our most popular tours.  All the photographs on this page were taken on previous South Dartmoor tours to the same area, so they will give you a good idea of the scenery you’ll be exploring.

Itinerary (4 days cycling)

Date Mileage Description Accommodation
Wed 12 April 25

On day one you will take a train to Liskeard station and then cycle northwards across the wild spaces of Bodmin moor, passing the famous Jamaica Inn along the route.  This will lead you via RAF Davidstow to Tintagel in the north where the youth hostel hugs the edge of a cliff and offers some of the most spectacular views of the tour right from your bunk.  If there’s time during the evening you’ll be able to explore Tintagel castle, the fortress used by King Arthur many years ago.

Tintagel YH
Thu 13 April 23

On Thursday you’ll be cycling the famous Camel Trail cyclepath from Wadebridge, where cycle hire shops at each end of the path ensure that there are always hundreds of other cyclists using the path.  After lunch in the delightful fishing village of Padstow you’ll continue along the coast to Treyarnon Bay youth hostel, situated next to one of Cornwall’s many unspoiled beaches.

Treyarnon Bay YH
Fri 14 April 22

The third day will take you further along the north Cornwall coast to Newquay, one of Cornwall’s premier surfing beaches.  If you’re lucky you may get to go on the pedal boats in Newquay park, or look around the World in Miniature at Goonhavern.  Highlight of the day, however, will be the enormous beach at Perranporth, offering many opportunities for exploration and fun.  The hostel is situated at Droskyn Point offering spectacular views of the sea and Perran sands.

Perranporth YH
Sat 15 April 18

The final day will take you further down the coast, past more glorious beaches at Porthtowan and Portreath, to Camborne where the train will take you back to Totnes during the late afternoon.

Home
 

Estimated tour costs

We keep costs low by staying at youth hostels and preparing our own meals in the self-catering kitchens.  You need to pay youth hostel and rail costs when you book the tour, as beds and trains need to be reserved in advance, but you can delay paying your spending and food money until the tour begins.

Cost component Age 12-17 Adult (with YP railcard)
Youth hostels 29.85 41.40
Rail travel, Totnes to Liskeard and Camborne to Totnes, including bikes (approx) 12.00 16.00
Food (recommended minimum) 18.00 18.00
General spending (recommended minimum) 10.00 10.00
Total cost 69.85 85.40
 

Preparation

Your cycle needs certain features to cope with the special demands of cycle touring.  It needs to be sturdy enough to carry heavy loads and cope with occasional rough roads or tracks; it needs to have low gears (30" or lower) so that you can cycle up most of the hills even when the bike is heavily loaded and you are exhausted; and it needs to be reliable, as breakages are not always easy to fix when you're a long way from civilisation.

Specialist touring bikes offer the best combination of features, but mountain bikes are more popular and can usually meet most of the requirements with just a few modifications.  You will certainly need to fit a good quality pannier rack, and full-length mudguards are a sensible idea if you don’t want to have to wash your clothes every night on wet days.  We also recommend changing the tyres for faster, road tyres:  you will spend most of the tour riding on roads, where chunky tyres make the riding hard work.

If you’re planning to buy a new bike,  start by looking at the Trek 800 range which offers quick release wheels and four-point rack fixing bolts for around £300, and have a chat with Michael to discuss your ideas before you make the final decision.  Whatever bike you decide to use, make sure it is roadworthy and safe before the tour begins.

Panniers are really essential for a tour, so you can carry all your luggage safely on the bike.  A good pair of panniers will have a total capacity of at least 40 litres in two separate, easy-to-remove bags and will cost between £38 and £65 for the pair.  Altura and Karrimor set high standards for their products, but some other manufacturers offer similar quality.

When choosing a pannier rack, try to get a strong one that uses four-point fixing, as this will be more stable when loaded with heavy panniers and will be less likely to break - expect to pay £20-£35 for a good rack.  

You are almost certain to get rain on at least one day of the tour, so you will need good raingear that is completely waterproof.  The recommended kit here is a waterproof jacket made of proofed nylon or one of the cheaper breathable fabrics, costing around £25-£80.  Three-layer GoreTex would be even better, but prices start at around £150 and so would not be a sensible purchase if you are still growing.  Over-trousers are not really very useful in spring or summer - you'll be better off wearing shorts in the rain than getting hot and uncomfortable in overtrousers.

The best footwear for the tour is probably a good pair of trainers that you can use on or off the bike.  Select other items of clothing according to your personal tastes.

Cycle helmets are optional on the tour but we strongly recommend that you wear one.  Just remember that they are not designed to protect you in a collision with a car, for example, so you still need to ride carefully and safely at all times.

If you are not already a member of the CTC you will need to join now, before you send in your booking form.  CTC membership costs just £12 per year for under 18s and includes free third party insurance (in case you cause an accident while cycling) and free legal aid.  You can join online at www.ctc.org.uk or telephone 0870-8730061.

You must also be a member of the Youth Hostels Association when the tour starts.  Membership costs £10 per year and entitles you to stay at the youth hostels that are part of the tour.  Once again you can join online at www.yha.org.uk, or telephone 01629-592600.

Lights are optional, but could be useful in case we are forced to arrive late by unforeseen circumstances.  Other items for your packing list will be listed on your final information sheet just before the tour begins.

How to book

Complete the online form below and we'll send you our detailed information booklet and booking form, which includes parental consent.  Just return the application form to us as quickly as possible with your advance fees (train and hostel charges) and you'll be included in the tour.  But don't leave it too long, as hostels often get fully booked well in advance.

Final Bookings

1.    Michael Jones
2.    Joe Venables
3.    Josh Ham
 

Latest tour details (constantly updated)

Provisionally taking train from Totnes on Wednesday 12 April, leaving Totnes 0852, arriving Liskeard 0945
6 bikes will be reserved if possible.  Tao may choose to take train Newton Abbot to Totnes.
Probably cycling to Totnes, weather permitting.

Provisionally taking train from Camborne on Saturday 15 April, leaving Camborne 1629, arriving Totnes 1828
6 bikes will be reserved if possible.  Tao may choose to take train Totnes to Newton Abbot.
Probably cycling home from Totnes, weather permitting.

Total cost of rail travel is £69.50 (using Michael's family railcard) plus £6 towards the cost of the railcard, total £75.50.  Dividing this as fairly as possible, the two children go for £10 each and the 4 adults for £13.88 each.

 

 

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Last modified: 09 October 2008